Sabyasachi, the saree and me.
As I read Indian clothing designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s comment at Harvard regarding women and the saree – http://bit.ly/2HbTQI7, and counter points to it – http://bit.ly/2CiaemH, some thoughts came up.
Mr. Mukherjee said “I think, if you tell me that you do not know how to wear a saree, I would say shame on you. It’s a part of your culture, (you) need to stand up for it.” My interpretation of his statement? An Indian, or one who identifies as Indian, should be aware of how to drape a saree – not that one should be wearing one all the time or that it is a stricture or stipulation on women’s dressing. As regards his ‘sexist’ comment of shaming only the women, he might not have said ‘Shame on you’ to men specifically but by saying the dhoti is dead, he was shaming the men more than the women. Well, that is how I read it anyway. And most definitely yes – the saree is an integral part of our culture. Unlike in many other nations where traditional dresses have been relegated to costume status, the saree in India is very much around and, if anything, is going through a resurgence, thanks to the very active handloom movement.
Nowadays, particularly with the younger generation (and the perennially young), the saree is often worn in a choreographed manner. Newer materials and zingy additions make them slippery and poky at the same time, requiring frequent readjustment, and are often unsuited to our local climatic conditions. This is because they do not look at the saree as day to day wear – it is to be worn on occasions, something like a statement piece. There is no expectation of being comfortable in it. This underlying premise definitely makes the saree seem like a cumbersome garment. Draped in the way it frequently is these days, the saree IS unmanageable through a normal day for an average individual. For heaven’s sake, there are so many pins! What garment with pins can be considered comfortable? Plus the right hand is constantly occupied holding one end of the pallu to reflect the exquisite work on it; the front is usually such that the pleats are well below the ankles and often trailing on the floor. To show off the custom made blouses takes further dexterity. Really, it is a full time job to look after the saree and its accoutrements for the duration of time it is on.
Mr. Mukherjee adds, “Grandmothers have slept in saree and have woken up without a single pleat out of their way”. Well, yes and no. Most importantly, ordinary grandmothers (at least of my grandmother’s generation) did not wear their saree in impeccably coiffed fashion – it was just draped quickly and traditionally with no pins and tied such that they could do their daily chores comfortably, with the pallu firmly tucked in. Had they worn it in the current style, it would definitely have required redraping post sleep (well, they wouldn’t have gone to bed in it to begin with). Secondly, most wore cotton, usually handloom cotton, at home – these stay in place. On the occasions they slept in silks, they almost ALWAYS redraped the saree upon waking up – but this was done with such alacrity that most never realised it.
From puberty onwards until marriage, I wore only half sarees and sarees. All the time. 24/7. 365 days a year. Which has made me very comfortable in it – 9 yards or 6 yards, and I can literally sing, jump, exercise, sleep or dance a jig in it. But I clearly remember how uncomfortable it was the first time I had it on and for several days of subsequent wearing– I felt like I had a huge tummy (I didn’t then) and that things were pulling and tugging at various places. I was MOST unhappy. So, my suggestion for those who really want to feel at home in the garment? Start off with light weight handloom cottons. Inexpensive ones that don’t break the bank. Select a blouse based on comfort. Drape it practically and without pins. Don’t take my word for it – look at pictures – of Rukmini Devi Arundale, for example. Join the facebook group Kai Thari, and look at traditional textiles with different eyes – http://bit.ly/2Br9A9w. Tuck the pallu in. Go through your day in it without worrying about how it looks but how it feels – try this for many days. You will get a totally different perspective. For the saree is truly versatile.
I believe one can do anything with the saree, yes, and comfortably. Milind Soman’s mother runs in her saree. There are pictures of ladies, pre-independence, playing tennis in Madras wearing them. But modern lifestyles, more activities, newer styles of tying the saree and a very hectic pace mean that sarees are sometimes not the most suitable garment. On crowded buses, women are often groped and touched in the bare areas. Having a skirt-like base makes it inappropriate in a public gym setting too. But then, as I said, I do not believe Mr. Mukherjee was suggesting women wear sarees all the time. As regards those who suggest that people are not wearing sarees due to Sabyasachi being unaffordable, with all due respect, how many look to that label for their sarees?
